The tile in your shower is doing less work than you think. It takes the abuse, it cleans up, and it sheds the bulk of the water. But tile is a field of small hard pieces separated by grout, and grout is a cement product with pores in it. Water passes through grout. It passes at every inside corner where two planes meet and move against each other. It passes anywhere a caulk joint has given up. That is normal, expected behavior, and a properly built shower assumes all of it.
Which means the actual shower is the layer you never see. Somewhere behind that tile there is either a system built to catch and drain the water that gets through, or there is not. A shower with a good assembly behind it can have hairline grout cracks for years and stay perfectly dry inside the wall. A shower with a bad assembly can look flawless from the outside while the framing behind it slowly goes soft.
Start at the studs. They need to be flat and plumb, because tile telegraphs everything underneath it, and a wall that wanders shows up in the grout lines. Blocking goes in wherever a niche, a bench, or a future grab bar will need something solid to bite into. Then comes the substrate, which is cement backer board or a bonded foam panel rather than regular drywall, because ordinary drywall in a wet wall is a sponge waiting for its moment.
Over that goes the waterproofing itself, either a sheet membrane bonded to the substrate or a liquid membrane applied to the right thickness. Seams get lapped. Inside corners get banded. The membrane continues down into the pan and ties into the drain assembly so that water landing anywhere in the shower has one continuous surface leading it to the drain. It is a system, and it only performs as a system. There is no such thing as mostly waterproof.
Nobody has ever had a shower fail in the middle of a flat wall. Failures happen at transitions, because transitions are where materials meet, planes change, and the installer has to make a decision instead of just rolling forward. An inside corner that was never banded. A board seam that got taped thin because it was the end of the day. A curb where the membrane was cut to fit around a corner and never sealed back together afterward.
The drain deserves its own paragraph, because it is the single most common weak point in a shower. Water that makes it through the tile ends up at the pan, travels down the slope, and arrives at the drain connection. If the membrane does not tie into the drain correctly, all of that water arrives at exactly the place where it can leave the assembly and enter the floor structure. Everything upstream can be perfect and it will still fail there.
Plenty of older homes along the Wasatch Front have mortar-bed showers, and they deserve some respect. A thick bed of mortar packed over wire lath, sloped by hand, with a pan underneath, built by someone who did this every day and did it well. Many of them have quietly done their job for a very long time, through owner after owner, which is more than most building assemblies can honestly claim.
But they are a service-life item, not a permanent installation. The pan below the mortar eventually gives, the mortar bed stays saturated, and the failure works outward from there. The difficult part for homeowners is that a mortar-bed shower gives very little warning and cannot really be repaired in place. Once the pan is compromised, the honest path is demolition and a new assembly. Patching the tile just buys time on a problem that is already inside the floor.
The frustrating thing about a waterproofing failure is the delay. Water gets past the assembly slowly and in small amounts, and it goes into framing, subfloor, and insulation, all of which will absorb quite a lot before anything is visible. So the shower looks fine, feels fine, and is actively causing damage the whole time. By the time you can see it, the leak has usually been running for a while.
The signs to watch for are all outside the shower. A soft or springy spot in the floor just outside the threshold. A stain, a bulge, or bubbling paint on the ceiling of the room below. Tile that keeps loosening in one particular corner no matter how many times it gets reset. A musty smell in the room that never fully clears. Any one of those is worth opening something up to look at rather than waiting to see if it gets worse.
Ask what the substrate is and what the waterproofing method is, and listen for a specific answer rather than a reassurance. Ask how inside corners and the drain connection get treated. Ask whether the pan gets flood tested before tile goes on. None of these are gotcha questions. Anyone who builds showers for a living answers them easily and is usually glad to be asked, because it means the conversation is about the part that matters.
Then ask what happens if demolition finds rot at the curb or a soft subfloor at the drain, because in an older bathroom that is a realistic outcome rather than a remote one. You want to hear how it gets handled and how it gets communicated, not a promise that it will not happen. A contractor who has opened a lot of walls will tell you plainly what they expect to find.
Rarely. If the leak is at a caulk joint or a loose fixture escutcheon, sometimes. If water is getting past the membrane, the membrane is behind the tile, and there is no way to reach it without taking the tile off. Surface products sold as sealers do not repair an assembly failure underneath.
A well-built waterproof assembly is meant to outlast your interest in the tile pattern. What ages first is the maintenance layer: caulk at the corners and grout that eventually needs attention. Those are expected upkeep. The assembly behind them should not be something you think about again.
Not at all. A solid pan with a properly detailed connection to the wall waterproofing is a reliable, straightforward assembly, and it removes one of the hardest details from the job. A tiled floor is a design choice, not a performance upgrade, and it demands more from the installer.
A few details about the room and the house is all we need to start. Or call 801-644-9000.